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Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History

Clagett Bracelet

Photograph of the Clagett bracelet (NMNH G10032) under reflected light
Photo by Chip Clark. Click to zoom.
Catalog Number NMNH G10032-00

Gift of Mr. C. T. Clagett in 1993.

This magnificent Art Deco platinum and enamel bracelet contains 626 diamonds, 73 emeralds, 48 sapphires, 20 rubies, and 4 citrines. The bracelet was made by French jeweler, Geoffroy et Eisenmann, for Vever in Paris between 1923-1925. It showcases a landscape with enamelled figures of a hunter on horseback and another on foot hunting a lion, styled after a Persian miniature. The diamonds are old European and single cuts. The round rubies form flower heads; buff-top marquise-shaped leaves are made of emeralds and citrine; and a “river” of buff-top blue sapphires flow through the landscape. The hunters and the lion are enamelled in colors of orange, green, blue, black and brown. This important bracelet from Vever was featured in the catalogue for the International Exposition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts of 1925 in Paris (Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes de 1925) and won the grand prix. The term Art Deco was derived by shortening the words “Arts Decoratifs” from this exhibition. The Art Deco period (1920-1935) produced dazzling jewelry that was dramatically different from the jewelry of the previous periods. Shifting from soft colors and flowing lines of the Art Nouveau and Edwardian eras to bold bright colors and straight lines. New geometric cuts for gems complimented the symmetry and streamlined look of Art Deco jewelry.



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